Crown Molding Calculator
Calculate compound miter and bevel angles for crown molding installation. Get precise saw settings for inside and outside corners.
Crown Spring Angle
Check molding packaging or hold against a framing square to find spring angle
Wall Corner Angle
Crown Molding Diagram
Miter Angle
31.6°
If your saw doesn't have bevel capability, position crown molding upside-down at its spring angle:
Ceiling edge against fence, bottom edge on table. This eliminates the need for bevel cuts.
- • Position: Upside-down on saw
- • Miter: Left
- • Bevel: Left
- • Long point: Bottom
- • Position: Upside-down on saw
- • Miter: Right
- • Bevel: Right
- • Long point: Bottom
| Spring | Miter | Bevel |
|---|---|---|
| 38° (52/38) | 31.6° | 33.9° |
| 45° (45/45) | 35.3° | 30.0° |
| 33° (57/33) | 28.5° | 36.5° |
- Crown goes UPSIDE-DOWN on the saw - ceiling edge against fence
- Always make test cuts on scrap - different profiles behave differently
- Consider coping inside corners for a tighter, more durable fit
- Back-cut outside corners slightly (add 0.5°) for tight front edges
- Use a crown molding jig if your saw's fence isn't tall enough
Related Calculators
About This Calculator
The Crown Molding Calculator determines the precise compound miter and bevel angles needed to install crown molding at any corner. Crown molding sits at an angle between the wall and ceiling (the "spring angle"), making corner cuts significantly more complex than flat trim. This calculator handles both standard 90° corners and non-standard angles found in bay windows, vaulted ceilings, and older homes, providing exact miter saw settings for perfect joints every time.
Whether you're a DIY homeowner tackling your first crown molding project or a finish carpenter working with challenging angles, getting the compound cuts right the first time saves hours of frustration and wasted material. Our calculator also provides material quantity estimates, waste factors, and 2026 pricing for MDF, solid wood, and polyurethane molding options.
In 2026, crown molding costs $1-30 per linear foot for materials and $14-22 per linear foot installed professionally. A typical 12×12 room requires 48 linear feet (plus waste)—$150-500 for DIY or $700-1,100 installed. Enter your room dimensions and molding specifications to get a complete materials estimate with cutting instructions.
Trusted Sources
How to Use the Crown Molding Calculator
- 1Enter your room dimensions (length and width) for material quantity calculation.
- 2Select your molding spring angle (38° or 45° are most common—check molding specs).
- 3Enter the wall corner angle (90° for standard corners, measure odd corners).
- 4Choose inside or outside corner type for angle calculation.
- 5View the calculated miter and bevel saw settings.
- 6Note the saw rotation and blade tilt directions for each cut.
- 7Add 10-15% to calculated quantity for waste and cutting errors.
- 8Make test cuts on scrap molding before cutting final pieces.
Formula
Miter = arctan(sin(spring) / tan(corner/2))Crown molding requires compound cuts—both miter (table rotation) and bevel (blade tilt) working together. The spring angle determines how the molding projects, and the corner angle determines the joint geometry. Both must be calculated together using trigonometric functions.
2026 Crown Molding Costs by Material
Crown molding prices vary significantly by material, size, and profile complexity:
Material Costs (Per Linear Foot):
| Material | Price Range | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| MDF (paintable) | $1-7/lf | Budget, paint-grade finish |
| Finger-joint pine | $2-5/lf | Paint-grade, easy to work |
| Solid pine | $3-8/lf | Paint or stain grade |
| Poplar | $4-10/lf | Paint grade, hardwood |
| Oak | $8-20/lf | Stain grade, traditional |
| Cherry/Maple | $10-25/lf | Stain grade, premium |
| Polyurethane | $3-15/lf | Moisture-resistant, lightweight |
| Plaster | $15-45/lf | Ornate, historic restoration |
Installation Labor (2026):
| Installer Type | Labor Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| DIY | $0 | Your time only |
| Handyman | $6-10/lf | Basic installation |
| Finish carpenter | $10-15/lf | Quality work |
| Expert/Custom | $15-25/lf | Complex profiles, difficult rooms |
Total Installed Costs by Room Size:
| Room Size | Linear Feet | DIY Cost | Installed Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10×10 | 44 lf | $100-300 | $600-1,000 |
| 12×12 | 52 lf | $120-360 | $720-1,200 |
| 14×16 | 64 lf | $150-450 | $900-1,500 |
| 16×20 | 76 lf | $180-530 | $1,050-1,750 |
| 20×24 | 92 lf | $220-640 | $1,280-2,100 |
Costs assume standard 3.5-5" painted MDF crown. Premium materials increase significantly.
Understanding Spring Angles
The spring angle determines how crown molding sits between wall and ceiling—using the wrong angle makes all cuts incorrect:
What is a Spring Angle? The spring angle is the angle between the back of the crown molding and the wall when installed. It determines how far the molding projects from the wall and ceiling junction.
Common Spring Angles:
| Designation | Spring Angle | Ceiling Angle | Profile Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| 52/38 | 38° | 52° | Most common standard |
| 45/45 | 45° | 45° | Square profile, equal projection |
| 57/33 | 33° | 57° | More wall projection |
How to Identify Your Molding's Spring Angle:
Method 1 - Manufacturer Specs:
- Check the label or product listing
- Most standard crown is 52/38
- Decorative/period crown may differ
Method 2 - Framing Square Test:
- Hold molding against a framing square
- Position as it would sit on wall/ceiling
- Measure angle between back and square edge
Method 3 - Spring Angle Gauge:
- Commercial gauges available ($10-20)
- Most accurate method
- Worth buying for multiple rooms
Why Spring Angle Matters: Using 45° calculations on 38° molding (or vice versa) produces cuts that:
- Gap at the front (visible side)
- Gap at the back (less visible but structurally weak)
- Require excessive caulking to hide
- Never fit properly regardless of adjustments
Compound Miter Angle Reference
Pre-calculated angles for common corner and spring angle combinations:
90° Corners (Standard Rooms):
| Spring Angle | Miter Setting | Bevel Setting |
|---|---|---|
| 38° (52/38) | 31.6° | 33.9° |
| 45° (45/45) | 35.3° | 30.0° |
| 33° (57/33) | 28.5° | 36.5° |
135° Corners (Bay Windows, Octagon Rooms):
| Spring Angle | Miter Setting | Bevel Setting |
|---|---|---|
| 38° (52/38) | 21.0° | 24.3° |
| 45° (45/45) | 23.5° | 21.4° |
| 33° (57/33) | 18.9° | 26.2° |
120° Corners (Hexagon Bays):
| Spring Angle | Miter Setting | Bevel Setting |
|---|---|---|
| 38° (52/38) | 25.0° | 28.0° |
| 45° (45/45) | 28.0° | 24.5° |
| 33° (57/33) | 22.5° | 30.0° |
Out-of-Square Corners (Adjustments):
| Actual Angle | 38° Miter | 38° Bevel | Adjustment |
|---|---|---|---|
| 88° | 32.0° | 34.4° | +0.4°/+0.5° |
| 89° | 31.8° | 34.1° | +0.2°/+0.2° |
| 90° | 31.6° | 33.9° | Reference |
| 91° | 31.4° | 33.6° | -0.2°/-0.3° |
| 92° | 31.2° | 33.4° | -0.4°/-0.5° |
For non-standard angles, use this calculator for precise settings.
Inside vs. Outside Corners
Inside and outside corners require different cutting approaches and saw orientations:
Inside Corners (Concave - Most Common): Inside corners are where two walls meet and form an inward angle—the standard corners in every room.
Cutting Method for Inside Corners:
| Piece | Miter Direction | Bevel Direction | Position on Saw |
|---|---|---|---|
| Left piece | Miter LEFT | Bevel LEFT | Upside-down, left of blade |
| Right piece | Miter RIGHT | Bevel RIGHT | Upside-down, right of blade |
Outside Corners (Convex): Outside corners project outward, like around a fireplace bump-out, soffit, or kitchen soffit.
Cutting Method for Outside Corners:
| Piece | Miter Direction | Bevel Direction | Position on Saw |
|---|---|---|---|
| Left piece | Miter RIGHT | Bevel RIGHT | Upside-down, right of blade |
| Right piece | Miter LEFT | Bevel LEFT | Upside-down, left of blade |
Note: Outside corners are the opposite of inside corners.
The Coping Alternative (Inside Corners Only): Professional finish carpenters often cope inside corners for better results:
- First piece: Cut square (90°) and install tight to corner
- Second piece: Cut compound miter as calculated
- Coping cut: Use coping saw to cut along the profile edge, removing waste
- Install: Coped piece overlaps square-cut piece, front edges meet tightly
Why Cope Inside Corners?
| Mitered Joint | Coped Joint |
|---|---|
| Opens as house settles | Stays tight through movement |
| Shows gaps when walls move | Slides past, gaps hidden |
| Both pieces must be perfect | Only coped piece must fit |
| Faster initially | Takes more time but lasts |
The Nested (Upside-Down) Method
The nested method positions crown at its spring angle against the saw fence, eliminating bevel cuts entirely:
How It Works: Instead of laying the crown flat and making compound cuts, position the crown upside-down against the fence at its installed angle. The fence represents the ceiling, the table represents the wall.
Setup for 90° Corners:
| Position | Setting |
|---|---|
| Crown orientation | Upside-down (ceiling edge on fence) |
| Spring angle | Built into positioning |
| Miter setting | 45° (not compound) |
| Bevel setting | 0° |
Advantages of Nested Method:
- No complex compound angle calculations
- Angles are "built in" to positioning
- Works on any miter saw (no bevel needed)
- Faster for standard 90° corners
- Less math, fewer errors
Disadvantages:
- Requires tall fence (limits molding size)
- Difficult with large crown (6"+)
- Only works for standard spring angles
- Non-90° corners still need calculations
- Positioning must be consistent
Spring Angle Positioning:
| Spring Angle | Back Projection from Fence |
|---|---|
| 38° (52/38) | 1-5/16" per inch of width |
| 45° (45/45) | 1" per inch of width |
| 33° (57/33) | 1-1/2" per inch of width |
Making a Crown Stop:
- Cut a triangular block matching your crown's spring angle
- Attach to fence with clamps or screws
- Crown back rests against block
- Ensures consistent positioning for every cut
Non-90° Corners and Odd Angles
Many homes have corners that aren't exactly 90°—accurate measurement is essential:
Common Non-90° Situations:
| Location | Typical Angles | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bay windows | 135°, 120° | Designed angles |
| Cathedral ceilings | Variable | Changes along slope |
| Older homes | 88°-92° | Settlement, construction variation |
| Custom designs | Any angle | Architecturally specified |
| Stairwell walls | Variable | Following stair angle |
Measuring Corner Angles:
Digital Angle Finder (Most Accurate):
- Place one arm against each wall
- Read the digital display
- Accuracy: ±0.1°
- Cost: $25-80
Adjustable Bevel Gauge:
- Set gauge to match corner
- Transfer to protractor
- Accuracy: ±1°
- Cost: $10-25
Two-Board Method:
- Hold straight boards against each wall
- Mark where they cross
- Measure with protractor
- Accuracy: ±2°
Calculating Odd Angles: This calculator handles any corner angle. For manual calculation:
Miter = arctan(sin(spring) / tan(corner/2))
Bevel = arcsin(cos(spring) × cos(corner/2))
Example: 135° Bay Window Corner (38° spring):
- Corner half-angle: 135° ÷ 2 = 67.5°
- Miter: arctan(sin(38°) / tan(67.5°)) = 14.2°
- Bevel: arcsin(cos(38°) × cos(67.5°)) = 17.7°
Much different from 90° settings of 31.6°/33.9°!
Material Selection Guide
Choosing the right crown molding material affects appearance, workability, and longevity:
MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard):
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Lowest cost ($1-7/lf) | Dents easily |
| Smooth, paintable | Must be painted (can't stain) |
| Won't warp or twist | Swells in humidity |
| Easy to cut | Heavy for its size |
Best for: Budget projects, paint-grade finish, dry rooms
Finger-Joint Pine:
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Budget-friendly ($2-5/lf) | Visible joints before painting |
| Real wood workability | Must be painted |
| Takes paint well | Some expansion/contraction |
| Lightweight | Lower quality appearance |
Best for: Paint-grade, straightforward installation
Solid Wood (Pine, Poplar):
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Real wood appearance | Higher cost ($4-10/lf) |
| Can stain or paint | Knots may show through |
| Traditional look | Some movement with humidity |
| Takes nails well | Heavier than MDF |
Best for: Traditional homes, paint or stain finish
Hardwood (Oak, Cherry, Maple):
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Beautiful grain | Expensive ($8-25/lf) |
| Stain-grade finish | Harder to cut |
| Durable | Requires pre-drilling |
| Adds home value | Heavier to handle |
Best for: Formal rooms, stain finish, visible grain desired
Polyurethane/Foam:
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Extremely lightweight | Looks less authentic |
| Won't rot or warp | Can crush during installation |
| Water-resistant | Requires special adhesive |
| Easy to install | Limited profiles available |
Best for: DIY projects, bathrooms, difficult installations
Crown Molding Size Selection
Crown size should be proportional to ceiling height and room scale:
Size by Ceiling Height:
| Ceiling Height | Crown Width | Profile Height |
|---|---|---|
| 8 feet | 3-4" | 2.5-3.5" |
| 9 feet | 4-5" | 3.5-4.5" |
| 10 feet | 5-6" | 4.5-5.5" |
| 11 feet | 6-7" | 5.5-6.5" |
| 12+ feet | 7"+ | 6.5"+ |
Room Size Considerations:
| Room Size | Adjustment |
|---|---|
| Small (under 100 sf) | Smaller crown, simple profile |
| Medium (100-250 sf) | Standard proportions |
| Large (250+ sf) | Can go larger than ceiling suggests |
| Open concept | Consistent throughout visible areas |
Profile Complexity:
| Style | Profile Type | Room Type |
|---|---|---|
| Modern/Contemporary | Simple cove or flat | Minimalist decor |
| Transitional | Moderate detail | Updated traditional |
| Traditional | Multi-step profiles | Formal, classic |
| Victorian/Historic | Ornate, multiple pieces | Period restoration |
Visual Tricks:
- Large crown makes ceilings feel lower (cozy)
- Small crown makes rooms feel taller (spacious)
- Detailed profiles add formality
- Simple profiles suit casual spaces
Multi-Piece Crown: For dramatic effect, combine multiple moldings:
| Combination | Effect | Cost Increase |
|---|---|---|
| Crown + bed mold | Taller look | 40-60% more |
| Crown + dentil | Classical | 60-80% more |
| Built-up (3+ pieces) | Grand | 100-150% more |
Installation Tips and Best Practices
Professional installation techniques ensure tight joints and lasting results:
Before You Start:
- Acclimate molding to room temperature/humidity (24-48 hours)
- Prime and paint before installation (touch up after)
- Mark stud locations on walls (or plan for adhesive)
- Number pieces and plan cutting sequence
Essential Tools:
| Tool | Purpose | Quality Level |
|---|---|---|
| Compound miter saw | Cutting angles | 10"+ slider preferred |
| Coping saw | Inside corners | Fine-tooth blade |
| Nail gun (15-18 ga) | Fastening | Pneumatic or cordless |
| Laser level | Layout line | Self-leveling preferred |
| Digital angle finder | Measuring corners | ±0.1° accuracy |
Installation Sequence:
- Mark reference line (ceiling or wall, depending on installation)
- Start with longest wall (minimizes visible joints)
- Work around room in one direction
- Install inside corners first (coped pieces)
- Fit outside corners last (can adjust length)
- Fill nail holes, caulk gaps, touch up paint
Nailing Pattern:
| Molding Size | Into Studs | Into Top Plate | Into Ceiling |
|---|---|---|---|
| Under 3.5" | Every stud | Yes | Optional |
| 3.5-5" | Every stud | Yes | Yes |
| Over 5" | Every stud | Yes | Into blocking/joists |
Common Problems and Solutions:
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Joint gaps | Angles off | Re-measure corner, adjust cuts |
| Crown won't sit flat | Uneven wall/ceiling | Scribe and shim |
| Visible nail holes | Wrong nail size | Use smaller gauge, fill carefully |
| Paint cracks at joints | Movement | Caulk joints before painting |
| Outside corners open | House settling | Back-cut slightly (0.5° steeper) |
Pro Tips
- 💡Always cut crown molding upside-down on the saw—the edge that touches the ceiling goes against the fence. Mark "top" on each piece before cutting.
- 💡Buy 10-15% extra molding for mistakes and test cuts, especially if you're new to compound miter cuts or have non-90° corners.
- 💡Make test cuts on scrap molding before cutting final pieces—even experienced carpenters verify settings on scrap first.
- 💡For perfect outside corners, slightly "back-cut" the angles (cut 0.5° steeper) so front edges meet tightly while the back may gap slightly.
- 💡Cope inside corners whenever possible—the joint stays tight as the house settles, while mitered inside corners tend to open up over time.
- 💡Prime and paint crown before installation—it's much easier on sawhorses than overhead. Touch up after installation.
- 💡Use a crown molding jig or stop block on your saw fence to ensure consistent spring angle positioning for every cut.
- 💡Start installation on the longest wall, then work around the room in one direction. This minimizes visible joints in prominent locations.
- 💡When corners don't fit perfectly, caulk hides small gaps. For larger gaps (over 1/8"), recut—caulk can't fix significant errors.
- 💡Acclimate molding to room temperature and humidity for 24-48 hours before installation to prevent shrinkage gaps after installation.
- 💡For large crown (6"+) or heavy materials, install backing blocks between studs first—nails into drywall alone won't hold.
- 💡Number your pieces and mark their locations before cutting—this prevents confusion about which piece goes where and which direction to cut.
Frequently Asked Questions
These numbers describe how the molding sits between wall and ceiling. "52/38" means the back makes a 38° angle with the wall (spring angle) and 52° with the ceiling. "45/45" sits at equal 45° angles to both surfaces. Most standard crown is 52/38; square-profile decorative crown is often 45/45. Using the wrong spring angle in calculations produces joints that never fit properly.

